Southern Living

The day after a tropical storm comes through is always fresh and cool, as if all the wind and rain has scrubbed the air clean. A day like this shouldn't be wasted - so I took the opportunity to go on a little road-trip up to Williamsburg county - home of Scott's BBQ. Scott's is a landmark amongst people who know their BBQ and after hearing about it several times, I thought I'd go and see what all the fuss was about.

It's about a two hour drive up Highway 41 to Hemingway, where you take a left, and drive about 2 miles out of town to get to Brunson Crossroads, which is just that - the junction of County Road 261 and Cowhead Street. Other than a dilapidated barn and an abandoned General Store - Scott's pretty much is Brunson Crossroads.

Scott's Pit Cooked BBQ

Signage is not their primary concern.

I parked in front of the old blue and white building, and as I got out of the car I was met by dubious stares from a couple of old men sitting under the awning.

"Excuse me," I asked awkwardly as I walked up to the closest man, "I was told there's some really good BBQ around here, could you tell where I could find it?"

A broad grin spread across his face as he nodded to the door and said, "It's right in there." It turns out, I had just addressed none other than Rodney Scott - the owner, and BBQ legend.

Mr. Scott on the left.

After devouring a heaping sandwich, and procuring a pound of 'que to take home with me, I got talking to the men outside again. Mr. Scott's right-hand man offered to let me see the pits where they cook the hogs.

He led me into an adjacent building - "the shed" - thick with smoke, where a row of large pits, filled with pig, were quietly smoking away. Then he showed me "out back", where they burn the wood in large metal drums, before bringing the coals into the shed and shoveling them into the pits under the meat. They cook each hog whole, which takes about 8 hours. I can honestly say I've never eaten better barbecue.

The Shed. The sign on the left above the door says "No drugs or loafers allowed!"

Inside the shed - note the holes under the pits where the coals go.

A whole hog cooking in one of the pits - this one is almost ready.

If you're still not convinced, here's a quote from the article I linked to above:

Scott's should be on the National Historic Register. It's that authentic. It's that good. If you want to see the essence of what barbecue is all about, this is it. They sell three basic commodities: pulled pork, fried skins, and King Thin white bread. Ten to 12 hogs a night are cooked and slathered with an absolutely atomic vinegar sauce, the spiciest we've ever eaten (of course, you can also forgo the sauce). If you go to Scott's, make sure to take a tour of the pits; timeworn and weathered, they hold three generations' toil within their grease-laden facades. These guys are so authentic that they chop their own wood — and to a barbecue fan, that should be convincing enough to plan a trip tomorrow.

Looking forward to more BBQ for dinner...

- Mr. Ed